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Aeranthes
Grandiose Shooting
Star AM/AOS likes shade,
intermediate to warm
temperatures, and high
humidity.
But we've found that it
overwinters quite well at
cooler temperatures and low
humidity.
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* Spraying
orchids with
water may help
remove dust and
grime for the
leaves, and you
may enjoy it,
but does little
to increase
humidity.
*Many smaller
growing orchids
such
pleurothallids
(masdevallias
and draculas) ,
miniature
species
phalaenopsis
and other
botanicals are
far less
tolerant of low
humidity and
will simply not
grow well or
bloom.
* Bathrooms as
not as humid as
people think,
except for a
few minutes
while you
shower!
If your
bathroom has
bright light
and is suited
to growing
orchids, then
by all means
grow some
orchids in
there as the
occasionally
higher
humidity can
only help.
* While many
orchids will
grow and bloom
fine when
relative
humidity is 50%
or even lower,
they will do
far better in
their ideal
humidity
ranges.
* 'Pleating' in
emerging
leaves, most
often seen in
miltoniopsis,
oncidiums, and
related genera,
is often
caused by low
humidity.
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Most tropical
epiphytic orchids,
which are the ones
we like to grow, require
high humidity as found in
their native
environments.
Orchids absorb moisture
directly from humid air through
their roots. If the air is too
dry, many orchids will lose
moisture through the stomata
(minute pores in the leaves)
faster and they can replace it
from the roots. As a result,
the plant
wilts.
Relative
humidity is
probably the most
difficult
factor
to control for indoor
growers, as humidity
levels in the house are
often quite low, and vary
according to temperature.
Many orchids grow in
environments where
humidity is 70% or higher
for much of the year. In
high-elevation cloud
forests, orchids are
based in constant mist
and fog year 'round.
Luckily, many of the
common orchids we grow
such as cattleyas,
cymbidiums, dendrobiums,
and phalaenopsis will
do OK with lower
humidity. Try to aim for
a humidity of at least
50% or higher. If you
have a greenhouse or
dedicated basement grow
room, you can use a
microfogger or high
output humidifier easily.
If you are an indoor or
windowsill grower, there
area few
tricks:
-Group
your plants together so that
they create a more humid
microclimate around
themselves.
-Use humidity grow
trays -not only does
this collect run-off water
when you water your
plants, but the water
evaporates to provide
humidity around your
plants.
-You
can also sit your orchid pots
in a shallow pebble-filled tray
that is filled with
weather-just be sure pots are
not sitting in the water.
-Always run a humidifier near
your plants in winter when the
air is notoriously
dry.
AIR
MOVEMENT
Air
movement is very important. In
the wild, most epiphytic
orchids growing up in the trees
are constantly moving in the
breeze. This air movement keeps
plants cool, especially during
hot weather. Always
make sure your orchids have
adequate ventilation.
When your collection grows to a
dozen plants or more, run a
small fan near them to keep the
foliage moving ever so slightly
as if in a light
breeze. The secret is to
aim the fan just above
the foliage. At the
very least, make sure your fan
is running when your humidity
is high, for example in the
height of summer and on cold
damp winter nights. This will
greatly reduce the incidence of
fungal and bacterial infections
which can quickly take hold and
destroy a collect
ion of
plants in a matter of
days. I've been amazed at
the overall improvement in
health and vigour of my
orchids, just by making sure
there is adequate air flow and
movement.
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