HOW TO GROW PAPHIOPEDILUM(SLIPPER)ORCHIDS 


paphs

 

 


Bold spotting and striping on an eye-catching slipper orchid. They make look exotic but they're not that difficult to grow.  

HOW TO GROW TROPICAL SLIPPER ORCHIDS
Among the most rewarding orchids for the beginner to grow in the home are the Maudiae type Paphiopedilums (paff-ee-oh-ped-ilum). The waxy pouched flowers, mostly in shades of green, white, tan, and burgundy, are held above the foliage on tall stems, and last from four to eight weeks. Larger multi-growth plants will often bloom more than once a year, yet remain relatively compact. Our guide is applicable to most tropical paphiopedilums including multiflorals (plants that produce several blooms to spike). 



 WATER  These plants like to be kept moist, but not wet.  However, do not allow them to dry out.  Test for dryness by inserting your finger about an inch into the potting medium; wait until it feels only slightly moist before watering again. Water plants thoroughly early in the day, so that the leaves are dry by nightfall. Filtered tap water, or rain water, is best. Water should be tepid, not cold. Watering schedules will vary considerably depending on light and temperature conditions. Plants may dry out rapidly in warm dry conditions, needing water every few days, or may remain moist in cooler seasons for longer periods of time. Water your plant according to its need, not your schedule.  

 


Paphiopedilum Frank Hughes has huge flowers in white and dark pink. This hybrid can be challenging to bloom.  

 

FERTILIZER . Paphs, like many orchids, do not like to be over-fed, and will suffer if excess fertilizer is applied. As a rule of thumb, apply fertilizer at quarter to half the strength recommended for indoor tropical plants.  For paphs potted in a bark mix, use an orchid fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content (such as 30-10-10) or a 'urea-free' formulation. In both cases, switch to a blossom inducing fertilizer (such as 10-20-10) once growths mature, or buds are seen emerging, generally in the cooler months, and continue to use this during flowering.  Alternatively, switch between fertilizers each time you feed. Fertilize plants 2-3 times a month during the warmer months and 1-2 times per month during the winter when growth is slower. Paphs that grow on a limestone substrate in the wild, will also benefit from a top-dressing of crushed oyster shell or dolomitic lime  about every six months, as will hybrids derived from those species.

HUMIDITY Paphs, like most tropical orchids like humidity, so try to maintain about 70% humidity, Plants will generally not do well with less than 50% humidity. Stand plants on water-filled trays of gravel (making sure plants do not sit in water), and spray plants with water during warm dry weather in order to increase humidity.

 

 

LIGHT  Most paphs are low-light plants, and like a shady spot where they  receive bright indirect light. They will do fine in eastern, or shaded western or southern exposures. As a rule, do not place mottled-leafed plants in direct sunlight. Let the foliage be your guide: leaves should be medium green in color with darker well-defined patterns in the mottled leaf types. Many of the larger multifloral paphs, usually with plain green foliage, need considerably brighter light to bloom, especially during the winter months.  

clear bright green foliage
Mottled foliage typical of Maudiae type paphiopedilums. 

 

TEMPERATURE  AND VENTILATION   Most paphs are happy with intermediate to warm temperatures from 75-80 during the day, and around 65-70 at night. A drop in temperature at night during the cooler months, may help induce buds. ‘Standard’ or 'complex' paphs enjoy temperatures about 5 degrees cooler. Make sure that there is always adequate ventilation and air circulation, particularly in the winter, or during very humid conditions, in order to avoid fungal and bacterial disease. However, do not subject plants to blasts of cold or hot air. An oscillating fan that moves air constantly at low speed is extremely beneficial.  

 

Continue to Part II of this article> 

 


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